The island is a big one, on great big casters. I cut a portion of the butcher block countertop slab to fit on it. Originally, I was going to use a simple table, sheesh maybe slap together wood from tv stands or something, or maybe construct a table of my own, using the butcher block as a tabletop. But as the renovation dragged on, and my list of Things To Do grew larger and larger, I decided to shell out the bucks and get one. I bought this island at my local Bargain Outlet (a chain of discount materials here in the Northeast). It cost a heck of a lot of money: $240. For that amount, I expected the materials to be first-rate and the instructions to be a breeze.

NOT.

The instructions were TERRIBLE. We had to take it apart three times due to poor or missing instructions. And the material is “OK.” But one of the stiles had been obviously cracked during manufacture, and had been glued together at the factory (in China).

We love the island– the concept of an island– and we made new parts of sturdier wood to make this work. So I don’t intend to complain about the island, per se. I just expected a lot more for my money. I wouldn’t recommend this particular island (it’s “Sunnywood”), but I do recommend the style: a big box of shelf boards with cabinet doors, and a sturdy wood countertop. We love our kitchen island for this. It also helps to direct traffic and keep passers by out of the work area. AND it makes a terrific barrier with which to play hide and seek with Livvy.

New Kitchen: The Island Workhorse

Original eloquence at New York Renovator.com. This content is copyrighted, so no stealing! Don't make me angry, you don't want to see me when I'm angry!

I LOVE my butcher block countertop. I had read all the pros and cons– some folks giving warnings about water damage and high maintenance. I have not had any problems with it. Sure, it’s more maintenance than the junky old laminate counters we had… but what’s so wrong about making the kids clean up the counters immediately after they use them?

I slathered Waterlox on the counters. It has really made the difference. It’s a sealer/finisher type product. The wood absorbs the sealer, and it’s water-resistant. It’s very expensive stuff, and I’ll have to re-do the counters when the Waterlox wears off, but it’s very easy to put on, and it makes the counters look gorgeous.

You can see the beautiful grain of maple. Ahhh!

The wood adds a very warm ambiance to the kitchen.

I just LOVE the wood.

You can see a glimpse of my cast iron sink in the background. We originally had a stainless steel kitchen sink, and it was “OK,” but I don’t really like the metal color. I like white sinks. The cast iron is very nice– I haven’t had a cast iron in decades– so I’m still getting used to how hard it is. The stainless steel had some “give”; no such luck with cast iron.

We’re wrapping up a LOT of loose ends this week. The kitchen still needs to be organized properly (we’re storing a lot of stuff on the gorgeous butcher block countertops right now), the dining room stuff unpacked, AND I have plans to re-paint the living room. I also hope to finish the baseboards and trim that I never finished, 3 years ago…

I cannot WAIT til it’s all over, and I can finally relax in my nice pink adirondack chair, sipping coffee and listening to the birds again. Wow. It will be SO worth it.

I Love Wood Countertops

Original eloquence at New York Renovator.com. This content is copyrighted, so no stealing! Don't make me angry, you don't want to see me when I'm angry!

In a word: IT’S OVER.

It was actually “not too bad.” The anxiety leading up to it was INTENSE, however. I am so glad it’s over. Of course, I have a small 4-foot area to do on the other side, and an island to build with the same countertop, but I am a seasoned veteran now. And THANK THE LORD I do not have to make another sink cut-out hole.

This portion of countertop was 12 feet long, weighing roughly 300 pounds. Four of us hauled it from its storage spot in the living room to the kitchen, on saw horses. From there I measured (and measured and measured and measured), and cut.

I also had to cut furring strips (I opted for stronger 3/4″ plywood strips) and secure them to the cabinet bases. I drilled half-inch holes in them with my spade bit. When we lay the countertop on the base cabinets, I will screw through these furring strips’ holes with a wood screw and washer, and into the underside of the countertop. The reason for this is to allow for the contraction and expansion of the wood countertop throughout the year. The wood can expand and contract as much as 3/8 of an inch from summer to winter; securing washers and screws through large holes allow for the wood to move on the cabinets as it expands/contracts. Failure to do this can cause warping and cracking of the wood. NEVER glue or screw in a wood countertop.

After finagaling with furring strips and scerws for a while, we set the countertop on the cabinets, and secured it.

HALLELUJAH it worked!!

Note the shoes taken off and the exhausted kid lying on the counter....

We collapsed for a while after this. It wasn’t a very difficult job, but like I said, the anxiety of doing it *perfectly* had drained our energy. I knew the hardest job lay before me yet: cutting the hole for the sink.

Cutting the sink hole requires exact measuring. If I went too far back, I would cut into the back of the cabinet, and– worse still– cut too far back for the new Delta faucet install. If I cut too close to the front, I would slice into the support stiles of the cabinet. My new Kohler cast iron sink came with a very helpful template. Believe me, I spent about an hour measuring and centering that piece of paper.

Finally, I decided to take the plunge.

*DEEP BREATH*

I drilled a starter hole with my spade bit. Then, I set my Black & Decker jigsaw (my new one!) to cut the hole.

IT TOOK FOREVER to cut through the hard maple. Holy cow. I burned through three jigsaw blades, and the wood was smoking. The kids helped me keep the tool steady, and held the flashlight so I could see (we still have no electric lights in the kitchen). When we reached the end of the cut, I screwed a scrap piece of wood across the top, to prevent the heavy cutout piece from collapsing into the cabinet.

It took three of us to haul that heavy piece out of the hole! I strained my back a little, doing so. :-p It was wedged in there tightly. But we finally grappled it out. I’ll clean it up and use it for a future cutting board.

Taaadddaaaaa!!!!

We hauled the heavy cast iron sink (like, 150 pounds?!) into the hole, to test it. Oh my goodness, it fit!

I removed the sink. The Hubs will set up the new faucet and drain baskets on the sink before we secure it to the counter. I slathered clear silicon caulk all around the inside of the opening, to seal the wood from moisture.

I am now in the process of treating the counters with Tung oil. It takes quite a bit of time (and stinks like all get-out). I’m using Waterlox sealer/finisher. It’s expensive stuff ($30 a quart), but it’s the best.

While we wait for the sink and plumbing, we’re turning our attention to the floors. I have to finish laying the underlayment (plywood sheets). I then must fill the screw holes and seams with wood putty, and sand them. THEN I can finally start laying my new floor (I chose TrafficMaster Allure flooring). Once the floors are in, we can move in the appliances and rig up the electric stove and gas dryer. I’m HOPING to get this done before school starts! Lord, help me!

The Butcher Block Countertop Installation Experience

Original eloquence at New York Renovator.com. This content is copyrighted, so no stealing! Don't make me angry, you don't want to see me when I'm angry!

I am currently in the “dilemma” mode. After all the meticulous planning for this project over the years, we have found that some things need tweaking. For example, the backsplash. I always planned for a laminate countertop, but at the last moment, we discovered that a stock laminate is not available for the length required (most stock counters come in 10′ max, ours is 11.5′). So I got maple butcher block at a phenomenal price, GREAT! But now that creates a new dilemma– the backsplash. I’m trying to stick with all wood in the kitchen, but suddenly I find myself thinking about tiles for the backsplash. I have always avoided tile because a.) my house is more crooked than a Washington politician, and still shifting, and b.) I don’t have a tile saw, nor do I want to use one. However, I find the small tiles and medium-sized subway tiles very attractive (very glossy and so “retro” looking), that I am reconsidering. I need a backsplash, definitely. I make a lot of Italian meals with sauce and cheese and pasta, and I tend to toss everything around in a very Italian-like manner. My old backsplash was riddled with the results of my Latin exploits. I need a hefty backsplash.

Another alternative is wainscoting, but I shudder to think of having to install ANOTHER thing in the house. I already have a huge laundry list of small jobs to do. Adding another is loathsome.

Another option is self-stick vinyl flooring tiles. Heck, the stuff is so easy to install… and the quality of the tiles has REALLY improved since my mother’s cheesy imitation parquet flooring. What do you think? I’m not afraid to be unconventional. This WHOLE HOUSE is unconventional. I’m using sawn-in-half table legs as corbels for trim and wallpaper for ceilings; I may as well get quirky with the backsplash, eh?

I don’t know what to do just yet. ANOTHER decision. ANOTHER thing to do. *sigh*

Backsplash Dilemmas

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I watched the installation video on the website (ModernMastersTransformations.com). Very intriguing.

Your countertops must be in “good” condition, but this epoxy stuff will cover burns, scratches, blemishes, get rid of blackheads and water stains, and etc. Pits or craters have to be filled with epoxy putty and sanded before applying the Countertop Transformations stuff. Your laminate must be securely laminated to the particleboard underneath it, and the laminate cannot have blisters or buckles. Of course, I can’t use this stuff. My 1970s countertops are so decayed that this wouldn’t work. Besides, I need new walls, flooring, cabinets, and everything! But maybe this can help some of you out there with ugly-but-structurally-sound countertops. This stuff apparently works on wood and metal, too. The instructions say it takes only a weekend to do, but you have to wait a week until you can do heavy-duty, normal kitchen use on them. It sure beats having to buy new countertops!

A Countertop Coating System?

Original eloquence at New York Renovator.com. This content is copyrighted, so no stealing! Don't make me angry, you don't want to see me when I'm angry!