New York Renovator

Now that good weather is finally here, I’m turning my plans once again to updating the electrical system in the home. It’s been a slow, long process, and I still only have half the house done! I have to keep up-to-date with the codes, as well, to make sure that all my work is done properly and legally. The biggest change I have seen is with new “arc-fault” circuit breaker. This was introduced in the National Electric Code in 2002, but we’re seeing it roll into the municipalities codes’ laws only recently. My town passed the regulation for these last year.

The arc-fault circuit breaker has a little pigtail wire that connects to the grounding bar in the circuit panel, and the white wire connects to a screw on the breaker. This new system detects “arcing,” or the electrical shorts that sometimes occur (and shorts occur in new AND old wiring) with overheating wires, poorly performing wires, or broken or loose wires.

Regular circuit breakers only protect the wire behind the walls (switches and outlets) when massive amounts of electricity surge through the line; they flip off,  preventing heat buildup (and thus, a fire). Arc-fault circuit breakers are a little more sensitive– these breakers have filters that detect impending arcs from things like loose wire/screw connections, nicked wires, brittle or cracked wiring, and etc. Because they are so sensitive, they sometimes go off intermittently and falsely (and the homeowner must trot down the basement to flick the breaker back on, or figure out why the breaker is switching off).

A few years ago, these arc-fault breakers were mandated for bedrooms and sleeping areas for new construction (most arc-related fires occur in bedrooms). I believe in New York State, this applies. Vermont, however, has recently required the use of these arc-fault breakers for ALL living rooms in residences. The caveat is that the arc-fault equipment is a lot more expensive than the traditional breaker equipment. I can find regular circuit breakers for $10 or so. The arc-fault breakers are commonly $45 to $50!! PER BREAKER! This radically increases the cost of electrical wiring.

Anyway, this information may come in handy the next time you need to gut a room to rewire it, or look at an estimate for new construction. I’m hoping that by the time I get to the bedrooms in my house, the arc-fault breakers will be more reliable– the last thing I want to do it pay 5x more for something that I have to monitor 5x more– and less expensive.

Photos from Handyman Wire and Inspect-A-Pedia NY.

The last time “he” was here was July 2007, when my living room looked like this:

Today the room looks like this:

“He” is the electrical inspector and he visited my humble abode Monday! (OK, so my living room still needs work and a good deal of decor, but at least the walls are closed!).

I took him around the room and then to the basement. I showed him my work and we discussed my methodology.

Here is a photo of my circuit panel. Isn’t it beautiful?!

I’ve been very conscientious about labeling EVERYTHING. I tend to forget things, you see. I even labeled each feed wire with a description of the room and the circuit breaker number. This impressed the inspector.

I even label the junction boxes with the circuit breaker number, and label the wires, as well. I will eventually be adding a few more circuits to this box, so I need to have everything labeled to avoid confusion.

I follow the codes stringently, and I keep my electrical work very simple and straightforward. For example, some electricians split their circuits using 12-3 wire, to save space and wire. I use straight-forward 12-2 wire and follow direct lines, even though this means a little extra work and extra wire. Actually, I don’t split circuits because I am not that confident in my abilities. The inspector said my methodology will actually work out to my advantage, because soon the town will be following the 2008 National Electrician’s Code (right now they go by the 2005). The 2008 requires Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters for all receptacles except the GFCI. The AFCIs are very touchy with 12-3 split circuitry (they flip off easily and it is very inconvenient). Read more about it here and here and here. It’s interesting reading. I’m not sold on AFCIs and will not install them unless I have to, to meet regulations. But thank God I am seeing some benefit to taking the straightforward route, as well as the “more is better” route. I use 12-gauge wire and 20 amp breakers only, so I’ve “futurized” the electrical system.

This is the reward I got for my job:

Wooo! Can you feel me beaming?? I am so happy to have everything “official.” Next in line is the kitchen. That room is a DISASTER. Some people are puzzled why I am so interested in electricity and not “girlie” stuff like plus size lingerie. :-p

There is something wonderful about studying and working very hard on something very difficult, and seeing that project accomplished. PLUS, it’s terrific saving all this money! I had a quote of $2000 from some electricians to wire my living room. Yet I spent about $200 for all the supplies, and I wired both the living room and the bedroom upstairs. I also was able to add a few worklights just where I like them in the basement, and wire up my washing machine on its own circuit. The possibilities are endless now!